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# North
- URL: https://tombrewer.co.uk/north/
- Published: 2025-10-26T18:51:43.000Z
- Updated: 2026-09-21T09:32:31.000Z
- Author: Tom Brewer
- Tags: Newsletter, #Migrated-1789982889005, #Import 2026-09-21 09:29

The road from Carlisle to Aviemore is a long, steady drive north, motorway giving way to moorland, the horizon widening, and then... The Cairngorms.

We stopped in Kincraig, a small village where the post office has been repurposed into a café that understands the restorative power of sugar and caffeine. A quick drink and a cannoli later, spirits were restored. We had arrived.

![](https://tombrewer.co.uk/content/images/2026/09/9957c0a3-47cb-4e34-b2d5-0ace2d17d455_2048x1365-jpeg-1.jpg)

By late afternoon we’d reached our Airbnb, tucked on the banks of the River Spey, a steady, self-assured river that seems in no rush to reach the sea. Bags dropped, boots on, we set out for a short out-and-back walk along the Speyside Way, the long-distance trail that traces the river through whisky country.

![](https://tombrewer.co.uk/content/images/2026/09/7828176c-d157-44d6-beac-c8d39c7e2fa4_1365x2048-jpeg.jpg)

The path wound through stands of pine and birch, the air scented with resin and damp earth, until we reached Loch Insh - a shallow, glacial loch that forms part of the Spey’s floodplain. It’s been a crossing point for centuries: early Highland travellers forded the river here, and nearby remains hint at Iron Age crannogs and medieval farming settlements. These days, it’s better known for sailing and paddleboards than ancient timber dwellings, but the quiet stretch of water still holds a kind of calm authority.

![](https://tombrewer.co.uk/content/images/2026/09/3bb402b4-d837-4a6b-aa7b-67415358e73c_2048x1152-jpeg.jpg)

After hours of driving through relentless rain from Carlisle, the clouds finally relented as we reached Loch Insh. The wind dropped, the air cleared, and for the first time all day there was a sense of stillness. A quiet, almost deliberate pause after the long journey. It felt like the Highlands welcoming us in their own understated way

![](https://tombrewer.co.uk/content/images/2026/09/9eb05c44-0149-4627-8f4e-ffcf2eb59859_2048x1152-jpeg.jpg)

Tomorrow we’ll trade the gentle rhythm of the Spey for something different; a day of cycling the old logging roads through the Caledonian forest, with half a hope of spotting a golden eagle patrolling the ridgeline. Tonight isn’t about plans or distance covered, just settling in, chilling out, and getting properly acquainted with the local whisky. A Speyside single malt in our cosy Airbnb feels as good a welcome to the Highlands as any.