The car packed, coffee in hand, we set off north. We’re heading for the Cairngorms, but today, a warm up in the Yorkshire Dales.
Malham was our destination, a village that looks like it’s been arranged by a National Trust stylist with an eye for symmetry: stone cottages, tidy walls, a pub that knows its audience. The weather held up, bright sun, a breeze sharp enough to remind you it’s still October, and light that makes the limestone glow.
The walk up to Malham Cove was busier than I expected. A steady stream of walkers, dogs, and selfie-snappers. Still, it’s worth the fuss. The cove itself is impressive, an 80-metre limestone cliff carved by glacial meltwater, complete with a rock formation at the top that looks like the world’s most impractical patio. It’s also, apparently, a Harry Potter filming location, though no wizards were spotted today.
It’s strange to think this peaceful valley was once home to a waterfall as high as Niagara, and that the last time it flowed was in 2015. From the top, the view across the Dales is everything you’d want it to be: rolling fields, dry-stone grids, and an expansive blue sky (today at least).
We’ve pushed on to Carlisle for the night, gateway to Scotland. Tomorrow, Aviemore, and the majestic Highlands. But for a first stop, Malham did exactly what you’d hope: a bit of walking, a bit of weather, and just enough geology to make you feel clever over dinner.
